Learn where you should buy the 3d-printer, how to properly assemble it, which upgrades improve it the most, and how to get the most effective use from it.Read More
This guide is designed to give the reader an understanding of the process of making 3D printed guns, and also serves as an an easy-to-follow path to building 3D printed guns in one’s own home or workshop. Here you’ll find the information and resources necessary to gain an idea of the time, tools, and materials required to successfully arm oneself outside of bureaucratic constraints.
En Bloc Press considers the right to arms a fundamental aspect of individual liberty, and views attempts by powerful people to disarm the common citizen with great suspicion. The information on these pages serves to frustrate the efforts of the anti-gun bureaucrat, to further demoralize the progressive bugman, and to degrade the efficacy of supply-side gun control.
Typical Workflow & Steps
Read This First
Frequently Asked Questions
The recommended printer – the Creality Ender 3 – usually costs between $175-$225 depending on the vendor and whether there are any discounts available.
A Creality Ender 3 only takes about an hour to setup for a new user. Do yourself a favor and watch the setup video in the Getting Started Guide.
Print times will vary with your printer model and settings, but expect larger prints (things like Glock frames, AR-15 receivers, and Tec-9 receivers) to take ~15-28 hours on a Creality Ender 3.
To comfortably print on a Creality Ender 3, you’ll need about a 2′ x 2′ square surface, and about 30″ of clearance to fit the frame and spool of filament on top. Your surface should be level and stable. The printer won’t do well on carpet or wobbly surfaces.
No. It’s only legal to manufacture firearms for sale if you have a Type 07 Federal Firearms License.
Because they’re spooky. 3D printed and craft-made guns generally don’t have serial numbers. This makes such firearms “untraceable,” and scares the media and gun control lobby.
There are a lot of different types of filaments to print with. Probably the most widely used for gun printing is a material called “PLA+”. If you’re just getting going, PLA+ is a really good starting point and offers a great mix of being easy to work with and producing quality parts.
You’ll probably see other materials mentioned (PETG, Nylon, “Carbon Fiber”) but just stick with PLA+ to start.
You can expect to get five or six Glock 17 frames from a 2.2lb (1kg) spool of eSun PLA+ 1.75mm filament.
eSUN 1.75mm PLA+ has widely produced good results and is used by many people in the community. It can be purchased on Amazon and is usually $25-$30 a spool. En Bloc Press has no affiliation with eSun, but we do use their product and have been happy with it.
No. There are plenty of options for 3D printers. But the Creality Ender 3 is probably the most commonly used printer in the 3D gun printing community, and a lot of the design files and documentation/instructions are designed for the Ender 3. The Ender 3 will be the most supported, but you can buy whatever you want as long as the bed is big enough.
Yes. Deterrence Dispensed is probably the largest and most active 3D gun printing group right now. If you have questions or want to be involved in a group chat about 3D printing, you’ll want to find Deterrence Dispensed at deterrencedispensed.com.
Taking the time to watch these ahead of time will give you a huge advantage when stepping into 3D printing. Invest the time and you will have a much more enjoyable experience with much less frustration and re-work than you otherwise might.
Leveling the Bed
Silent Motherboard Upgrade
Initial Unboxing and Assembly
Watch this video before putting together your Ender 3. It will stop you from making common mistakes and will get you started off on the right foot. Required viewing!
Leveling the Bed
If your bed is not level, your print will fail. This can be daunting the first time you set it up, but it’s 100% necessary. Take the time and do it right. You will not be able to make anything — let alone a firearm frame — unless your print bed is level.
You don’t have to do all of these upgrades, but we’d suggest doing a few of them. The fan cover and filament guide are extremely useful. And the small projects are a good way to practice your printing without a huge block of time being committed.
Silent Motherboard Upgrade
Upgrading the motherboard is by no means required, but it’s a nice upgrade. It’s relatively simple and quiets down the printer quite a bit. It also adds thermal runaway protection which makes it safer to leave your printer unattended.